The purpose of this guide is to help you understand the types of materials and different ranges, from fabrics to colours to style in knitwear available and where you can purchase these items from.
History
Knitting is a technique that produces fabric from a strand of yarn or thread. It originates from the basic need of humans for clothing for protection against the elements. Knitting has become more of a general hobby over the years than being a necessary skill. Knitting does not require large equipment unlike weaving, which makes it a valuable technique for nomadic and non-agrarian people.
It is believed that socks were the first ever article made with a knitted appearance, using techniques similar to knitting. The earliest known examples of knitting have been dated between the 11th and 14th centuries and cover a range of items found in Egypt, these included complex colourful wool fragments and indigo, white and blue cotton stockings
Different types of material and fabrics
Cashmere- originates from the cashmere goats, it is characterised by its soft, fine fibres which are easily spun into yarns and light to heavy-weight fabrics, they are also highly adaptable. The original natural colourings of cashmere wool are various shades of brown, grey and white. Cashmere is so precious and has an increased value due to the difficulties and long period in which it takes gathering and checking the quality of the fibre.
Lambswool – Is soft, slippery, resilient and smooth textured wool that has superior spinning properties, it is taken from sheep before they reach the age of 7 months. Lambswool is used in fine grade woolen fabrics and comes in a variety of qualities depending on where the lamb originates from. Lambswool is a long-lasting, soft fibre; it is mostly used for heavier and outer garments in winter collections.
Silk Cotton – Is a smooth fabric with a soft texture that is not slippery; this is unlike many synthetic fibres. A good property of silk is that it is one of the strongest natural fibres although it does lose up to 20% of its strength when wet. It has an elasticity that is moderate to poor: Once it has been stretched then it remains stretched as it has poor elasticity. If exposed to too much sunlight then it may become week. Due to silk being a poor conductor of electricity it does have the susceptibility to static cling. Unwashed silk can shrink up to 8%, this is due to the relaxation of the fibres. The cost of a square foot of silk is around £18.
Alpaca fibre – Is partially hollow; it is lighter and has better insulating properties than sheep’s wool. Unlike Wool Alpaca does not have the prickle factor so most people allergic to wool can wear alpaca. Alpaca will ensure that any items made will turn out lighter, warmer and softer than sheep’s wool. Alpaca is a more flexible fibre than wool. Suri alpaca fleece is known for its shine. It is commonly used in high end woven goods.
Merinos – The majority of the world’s merino originates from Australia and New Zealand. Merino comes in many variations depending on the sheep. Extra Fine Merino is the finest and softest. Extra fine merino gives a smooth and clear stitch definition and garments that last for years.
Types of knitting
Circular knitting is a form of knitting that creates a seamless tube. This type of knitting is cast on and the circle of stitches is joined. Knitting is worked in a spiral. Later, circular needles are used to knit in the round, these needles look like two short knitting needles connected by a cable between them. Machines also produce circular knitting; double bed machines can be set up to knit on the front bed in one direction then the back bed on the return. Generally sweaters are knitted in the round.
Combined knitting is a style that combines Eastern-style knitting with the Western techniques. This is done by wrapping the yarn the opposite way while purling, the knitter changes the orientation of the resulting loops; then the next row’s knit stitches can be formed by inserting the needle from the right instead of from the left. The needle is always inserted from the right, whether knitting or purling. This technique is suitable for all knitted fabrics.
Continental Knitting is done with the yarn held in the left hand. Unlike English knitting, the yarn is held in the left hand; the motion of bringing the yarn forward with a needle held in the other hand is sometimes known as picking. Continental knitting is seen as an efficient method and requires the shortest number of specific hand motions per stich thus preferred by professional hand-knitters.
English knitting, also known as right-hand knitting or throwing, is where the yarn to be knit into the fabric is carried in the right hand. This style of knitting is used throughout the English-speaking world.
Flat knitting is used to produce knitted fabrics where the work is turned periodically; this is where the fabric is knitted from alternating sides. The two sides are usually designated as the right side and the wrong side. Flat knitting is normally contrasted with circular knitting, in which the fabric is always knitted from the same side. Flat knitting can be complicated compared to circular knitting, since the same is produced by two different movements when knitted from the right and wrong sides. In flat knitting, the fabric is usually turned after every row.
Warp knitting is a group of knitting methods in which the yarn does a zigzag along the length of the fabric, following adjacent columns of knitting, rather than a single row. Warp knitting requires that the number of separate strands of yarn is equal to the number of stitches in a row; warp knitting is almost always done by machine, not by hand. All warp-knit fabrics are resistant to runs and relatively easy to sew.
Patterns
The Aran sweater is a style of sweater that takes its name from the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. The style of sweater is sometimes known as a fisherman sweater. It is a bulky garment with prominent cable patterns on the chest, often cream-colored.
Fair Isle is a knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colours. This takes its name from Fair Isle, a tiny island in the north of Scotland that forms part of the Shetland Islands. Traditional Fair Isle patterns have a limited palette of five or so colours, use only two colours per row, are worked in the round, and limit the length of a run of any particular colour. Traditionally a Fair Isle sweater is constructed by knitting the body of the sweater in the round, sewing or otherwise fastening the work securely where the arm holes are to go, and then cutting the knit fabric to make the armholes
Intarsia involves one active colour on any given stich, this is unlike any other multicolour techniques, the yarn is not carried across the back of the work; when a colour changes on a given row, the old yarn is left hanging. Sweaters with large, solid-colour features like fruits, flowers, or geometric shapes are all examples of intarsia.
The argyle pattern is made of diamonds that are in a diagonal checkerboard arrangement. Most of the time argyle layouts contain layers of overlapping motifs; this adds a sense of three-dimensionality, movement, and texture. As a knitting pattern, argyle is generally done using the intarsia technique. Argyle patterns are also occasionally woven.
Sizing Guide
Mens
Womens
Where to buy
Woolovers
This company started in 1989 and are now a world class retailer for men’s and ladies classic and contemporary knitwear. They have websites for Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand and the UK to help expand their business internationally. They provide Wool, Cotton & Cashmere knitwear and ensure that the yarns are of the highest quality and that all of their styles are fully machine washable.
Wolsey
Wolsey is a heritage British clothing brand and was founded in 1755, making it one of the oldest existing textile companies in the world. Wolsey sells men’s clothing and accessories, including, socks, underwear and scarves
Austin Reed
Austin Reed began as a small tailor in London and has today grown in to The Austin Reed Group which boasts over a century of design excellence and an international reputation with a passion for quality without compromise. The company expanded into women’s wear and highly-anticipated launches of the diffusion labels RED, Cut and Luxury for Less, Austin Reed continues to innovate with an ethos that represents style and substance simultaneously.
TM Lewin
T.M.Lewin was established in 1898 and based itself on quality and value, and worked hard to establish itself. T.M.Lewins earned a reputation as a first class shirt tailor. Today the company make shirts, suits and shoes, keeping the same quality as when it was first established. They have also introduced brightly coloured, checked, striped and patterned shirts wear. They have an in-house design team that creates over 100 new textiles every month to ensure originality with their clothes.
Lyle & Scott
Lyle & Scott were founded in 1874 on the Scottish Borders in a place called Hawick. They designed an exclusive Cashmere collection with Christian Dior. They also offered a golf range, as well as clothing the Ryder Cup Team. In 2001 the brand was updated which marked the beginning of a new era for Lyle & Scott, this led to the launch of their vintage range. The company range a variety of different clothing to meet individual needs.
